Metzger Bar & Butchery
801 N 23rd Street
Brenner Pass + Chairlift
3200 Rockbridge Street, Suite 100
Game of Thrones: How three queens of the Richmond dining scene acquired — and hold onto — their seats at the table
By Genevelyn Steele
Deftly creative and highly skilled, Brittanny Anderson grabbed Union Hill diners by the schnitzels when she opened Metzger Bar & Butchery in 2014. Her largely German menu dropped during a sticky Richmond summer, with unfussy finesse. My first meal at Metzger included mette, a rough cut of Bavarian steak tartare that glistened with briny sharpness. In no time, discerning eaters — both local and national — noticed Anderson, who trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York under several master chefs, most notably, Jacques Pepin.
After honing her palate at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Anderson returned to Richmond to stake her claim.
“I was a line cook at The Roosevelt while opening Metzger,” says Anderson. “The space was build-to-suit, with the landlord paying for the restaurant hood and HVAC. We did everything else ourselves— — painting, bathrooms, window treatments — opening on very little money.”
Self-reliance is Anderson’s forte. She praises her chef’s abilities, albeit she’s never allowed anyone else to write a menu item. She swears Metzger’s 95 percent female kitchen is executing at its highest level ever, allowing Anderson to spend most of her evenings on the line at Brenner Pass, the modern, Scott's Addition chalet focused on Alpine cuisine from Italy and France. I’ve procured a few pointers from Anderson on her ascent.
... Read more (including two other "Queens") in Volume 2
Genevenlyn Steele's Pup
Illustration by Emily Herr